Last reflections...

Writing from back in the UK, having recovered (just) from the jet lag... what would my top experiences be?

1.  Chai! - I was fortunate to drink chai every day and in lots of places - from a street vendor by Fateh Sagar, in the home of a rickshaw driver (I also had a lesson on making it here!), every morning on campus and in a thin china cup and saucer at a posh hotel.   If pushed as to the best (in my view) .... it would be the street vendor - lots of ginger and a slight smokiness.

2. Curries!  I ate curries for 2 meals a day usually - and they were so different to the ones I have eaten at my local take a way!   Such variety of vegetable dishes along with the staple Dahl, different each time.  I ate so much less meat - perhaps once /twice a week... and how much I enjoyed this.

3. Local people - meeting so many who were so hospitable, kind and thoughtful. I enjoyed walking around not just taking a rickshaw or cab... that is strange, but you do get to see a different perspective and see the same people ..... a friendly  wave and "namaste" means a lot.

4. Birds!  So many were new to me .... from the hoopoe that  landed on the school field on the first day I was teaching to the black kites that circled overhead all the time.  It will take some time for me to look through my photos and identify them.

5. Lake Pichola and sunsets!  So beautiful.


These are all very homely things - I was fortunate to have 4 weeks in Udaipur and because of that I think the homely things are what I will really remember..... and miss!

Till next time...

Is it really that spectacular...

What can I be talking about?  Yes you have guessed - that Taj Mahal!

My overnight trip to Agra was not what I had originally planned (my trip to Shimla by train wasn't possible.... I have a slight doubt about whether this was actually true but it is what I was told!).  However, Agra Fort , and the Baby Taj were well worth visiting - and that's before the Taj itself. 

The fort is immense...

I particularly enjoyed the space in the garden...

...the  inlaid marble work is incredible...

The baby taj is so called because it is similar in some ways - but at a much smaller scale... in many ways I prefered this because of this .... and so much quieter so much easier to to relax and enjoy it.

The detail is phenomenal...

But onto the Taj Mahal itself.... we are so familiar with what it looks like so I think I was expecting it to be a bit of an anticlimax....it wasnt.  Even on a very murky and misty day and with thousands of other visitors, it was still spectacular.

And of course the view we all know.... I wasn't able to have the view without anyone else!!  As my cousin June commented - other members of my family have stood here ..... going back over many many years.  I thought about them (especially my mum and aunt) many times.

Once again the inlaid marble work is amazing.

The grounds are also lovely.   I would recommend visiting if you get the chance.

On to Delhi... Red Fort

My last week in India and I'm spending most of it in Delhi.  A chance to look at some of the main tourist sights (there are lots)  see some of the bazaars (and try not to get ripped off!) and generally experience India's huge capital - Old and New!

To start with it felt totally overwhelming!  With a population of 27.5 million, to Udaipur's 450,000 it is mega... and you feel it!  There really is no comparison between the 2.  I thought that having got used to Udaipur, I would not experience that feeling - how wrong can you get!  It certainly never seems to sleep!  My hotel is in Parhaganj a popular tourist area on the edge of old delhi and right by New Delhi railway station - and it comes to live around 3am every morning - having gone to sleep around 1am!  It feels loud  and incredibly chaotic - although the main bazaar didn't feel too scary once I braved it (it took me a couple of days!)

I tackled the red fort first and once inside ( foreigners pay extra everywhere!) it does feel much calmer and you can sneak off into quieter parts (Salimgarh is worth the time - just over the ring road)

The main gate is where the indian flag was raised for the first time - 15 August 1947.

The fort is a strange mixture, with a palace, mosque as well as old barracks that the British used (still there, now decaying) and there is still an Indian army contingent there.  The museum has a lot to say about the struggle for independence from the british - I found it interesting and uncomfortable to see things from an Indian perspective.... In fact this has been true throughout my time - its always good to be taken out o your own culture - it helps you see a different view and illuminates some cultural blindspots.

There are some very beautiful details - inlaid marble, and what would have been beautiful fountains.

In its time there would have been an artificial stream running through the whole complex - now all that remains is the dry channels...

  

... sad reminders of what it once was. Well worth a visit.

Lost in translation.... 2 worlds collide!

No photos for this one (so feel free to stop reading now!) - just a few things that have struck me.... mainly to do with driving and roads.

English is still a language that is widely used in India, however some words just do not translate in the same way...

Give Way --- absolutely never under any circumstances (barring a collision in the next millisecond) do you ever let someone else in!  However always give way to a cow / buffalo / camel / donkey/horse / elephant and probably even a goat or a dog - I've seen them all and they do seem to take priority.

Wait till there is a space - nope!  Just go.... this includes pedestrians so crossing the road is really interesting without the aid of a convenient cow to follow!

No entry /exit - why would you obey that? If going in the exit or out of the entry is the shortest way then go right ahead..

One Way - see above.... even when this involves crossing a busy dual carriageway and heading along facing all the oncoming traffic for some distance..... this is fine!  (If alarming especially on your first day in India, in an autorickshaw and jet lagged!) ... I got used to it as it happens all the time.

Drive on the left hand side - well technically .... but it certainly works differently in India - especially at roundabouts (circles here)


And always remember " Over speeding invites prosecution"  - Over speeding?  Surely speeding is speeding and overspeeding is ... perhaps the Indian equivalent of too fast to be offered a speed awareness course!

Hartlepool beware when I resume driving - I will try not to be too Indian!

Lake Fateh Sagar ....more than just "another Lake"

Udaipur is known to be a city of Lakes and it certainly is. It means it is a much more open city and it certainly is very beautiful.  Lake Pichola tends to be the one that gets all the mentions - and it is the one that is in the middle of the old city.... however Fateh Sagar also gets my vote as a special place.

For my time in Udaipur I have been only 5 minutes away from this lake - and whenever I walked into the old city, it was past this one first. As well as some interesting (but obscure) environmental art...

It also is fantastic for the wealth of birdlife - much of which was completely new to me... red wattled lapwing...

These were very common... I must have seen them every day...  Black winged stilt....

with totally ridiculously long legs...also seen very commonly.  The lake also had its own amazing buildings in the middle..... quite a location...

And you can never have too many sunset shots....

and this one - a favourite because it shows Filadelfia campus - which gave me a home for my time in Udaipur...

So if ever you are in Udaipur - spare a thought for Fateh Sagar.

Lake Pichola boat ride...

Lake Pichola is one of Udaipur's beautiful sights - I think this rates as my favourite spot (especially after a hot walk through to get to this

... and having navigated the odd obstacle or two...

It somehow makes it all the more beautiful!  In the Old walled city it can seem dark but there are so , many great views especially from conveniently placed cafes...

A boat ride on the lake is also a great way to get to water level and a different view.  I was a bit concerned about the health and safety (you know me) ... however I wasn't quite prepared for the "one size fits nobody" life jacket... with its optional hood!

Definitely a tad overdressed...I could have done with a smaller size....!

However the views were so worth it - although it was very hazy.

Caroline's new clothes

Rajasthan is known for its bright colours – and its true.  Imagine putting together colours that you wouldn’t put together (orange and pink ?) – here in Rajasthan anything seems to go as far as colour combinations are concerned.

My wardrobe is not known for the breadth of its colour palette but I love the colours here – it’s a shame that I cannot wear so many of them as they make me look so washed out.Janet kindly lent us tops so that we would fit in respectably, before our own were made.

In order to wear clothes that fit in more with the culture in India and at the college, (and frankly being most comfortable) a trip to Janet’s tailor for our own new clothes was a must.  Hand made tops (Kurti) and trousers are no more expensive than buying ready-made and as I am not a typical Indian shape although certainly don’t feel short here (hurrah!)  hand- made was the best option.

A trip to the tailor was an experience to say the least, into the old city and the textile quarter.  The colours are amazing; it’s a real assault on the senses!  The old city is amazing in itself with a real mixture of shops next to each other, to be particular parts such as textiles or hardware.  There are more supermarket type places like the aptly named “Big Bazaar” but nowhere near as much fun and more costly.

Hemat’s shop wasn’t huge but had an amazing array of fabrics and he measured efficiently, made notes as the fabrics were chosen and 3 days later I had 5 new garments.  They fit well and are really comfortable.   Together with numerous scarves (very practical in the dust and heat as well as allowing extra coverage of female shape).  

See the results for yourself!

And another one...

I love wearing them!  Such a shame they will not be warm enough for December in Hartlepool!

Food glorious foooood.....

Eating on campus is certainly broadening my experience of curries….breakfast is usually curry free (although one morning  I had an omelette which had green chilli in it!) .  Lunch is rice and dahl plus a vegetable of some sort, and tea is rice, chapatti, vegetables and another curry.  The food is very good – the quantities are not huge (by Indian standards!) and it all feels light, without heavy creamy sauces.  And meat is usually only once a week - the veggie dishes are so good I am not missing meat at all!

Part of the kitchen is outdoors.... its a big pot for the rice!

  

I have bottled out of eating with my fingers – eating in the guest dining room we do have the option of cutlery!  We also have the luxury of being served – 2 students have been given serving us as a task and they do it very well. Every day in college, the evening meal has chappatis – not all students come knowing how to make them (in Tamil Nadu for instance, they don’t have chappatis ) – so they also learn …. However they need a lot of patience for Tamzin and I as we attempt to roll them thin enough and round!  I discovered that mine were being “re-modelled” because there is a lot of competition between the boys teams and girls teams….. and the boys complain if they are too thick! Having said that the girls graciously welcomed me onto the team!

Joining in with the girls teams in the making is good though – lots of laughter and it’s an informal chance for the girls to ask us questions (they have many) and talk in English. As we are also helping in their evening devotions, it also allows us to build some friendships – a good platform for sharing and prayer.  Hopefully I will also be able to make them back home  …. I will probably buy a chappati rolling pin here !

We have eaten out in Udaipur a couple of times and tried different things – I haven’t had anything too hot yet!  One morning the students brought us a bowl of the indian breakfast – “Poha (no idea how to spell it) – not rice, but another grain plus tomatoes, peanuts and green chilli – the chilli certainly woke me up! Jaysri and Rozi (the 2 students who are looking after us) explained that students are from all over India and so not all like it very hot – some bring their own chilli powder to add extra, others remove the chilli!

So far the food has not had any undesirable affects either, but a salad would be nice!

Brave womans or senior citizens?

Our first almost solo trip out!  Taken by Janet’s usual rickshaw driver Momat to the bottom of the hill, we walked up to the monsoon palace, with the idea of watching the sunset.   The exercise was great – although clearly not what Udaiporeans do unless they are very poor or on a fitness kick!  As we toiled up in the heat, a driver coming down hailed us as “brave womans”.

The walk was also notable as its next to a nature reserve and I enjoyed seeing my first wild monkeys, as well as different birds and some sort of civit...

... as well as some "cool dudes" who had parked up and were dancing!  They did invite us to join in but we declined!

The view from the palace itself was great and I had my first (there have been several more) of random requests to be included in photos – I guess the white faces are a novelty.

No sunset though – Udaipur is very misty and murky at times and the sun was shrouded in what I assume was dust and pollution – it is very dusty.   We headed back to where Momat was waiting for us and another curry for dinner.

The next day we headed into the old city for a look around City Palace.  Oh My Word – seeing it now when parts are in need of restoration it is spectacular enough, it must have been amazing.  Paying entrance was where we were asked if we were senior citizens….from brave womans to senior citizens in 1 day! 

The photos in no way convey the scale of the place -  well worth a visit and some great views over the city

The Rhythm of life....

There is a gentle yet definite rhythm to life here ....the students rising bell is 5.15am, at the moment the Muezzin starts around 5.45, breakfast 7.15, college chapel at 8.

School starts at 8.45 and this morning there were 3 lessons we were involved in before their lunch break at 11.  Chai is served at 11 too - I am certainly getting the taste of this hot, slightly spicy (ginger and others) and very sweet beverage. Pictured below is the school pricipa - known as Glory Mam.  I am known as Caroline Mam!  male teachers are known as Sir as in William sir. 

Lunch (rice, dahl and a vegetable) is at 1.15 and then things go quiet till 3.30/4 ish as it is really too hot to be outdoors. 

After that its exploring  and time to walk into the old city aiming for a drink overlooking the lake.... I have found out this is the view used in the old bond movie octopussy!  (For any of you oldies who remember this!)

Returning for dinner at 7.15 and then quiet evenings chatting, drinking tea and generally doing battle with the internet connection to write blogs! 

A quiet weekend...

After the business of yesterday it was good to relax a little.  We have been allocated a couple of students who look after us as far as food is concerned – so meals are served to us in the guest dining room.   Not surprisingly it is curry for every meal, but we have negotiated curry free breakfasts! The pictures below were taken from just outside my room - Udaipur is quite beautiful.

Another trip to the airport to pick up Tamzin – who this time did manage to catch the flight OK.   The rest of the day was spent relaxing and another attempt at sleeping to  reset the body clock. 

Sunday morning and we elected to join the college church service, having been given the appropriate etiquette tips.  The men and women sit separately and the women also cover their heads to pray and if speaking.     Most of the songs were in hindi – sometimes the hindi words were written in English letters which helped and some had English translation.  The sermon was translated – and the preacher / translator kept swapping over as to who spoke in English or Hindi!  It made for an engaging sermon – helpful as it was a long service!

Out for lunch in Udaipur – yep it was curry!  And very nice it was too! 

Another quiet evening and so to bed!

First impressions

Airports are the same the world over ( or at least the bigger ones are…)  but there are culinary differences – even in my experience of 4 in my first 24 hours. From the coffee and muffin in Newcastle, to the chicken in a mushroom sauce on the flight to Dubai (very tasty I might add!).  In Dubai, t0 go with the wall of heat (28 degrees at midnight) – was a subtly flavoured cheese and Zataar (I think)  toasted flatbread (manakish?).  And then breakfast on the flight to Delhi….. a mushroom curry, dosa and little rolls like oat cakes in texture!  I even ate it delicately with my right hand!  The man in the next seat wryly commented “you are in India now!”  I looked out of the window and saw the sunrise over India.

Delhi airport – very civilised and (perhaps disappointingly) just like any major airport.  Immigration was slow but they let me in and I caught my flight to Udaipur… just!    Unfortunately, Tamzin had an e-visa and that queue was so slow she missed the flight, and had an unscheduled night in Delhi.

Food on the next flight was just snacks …. They turned out to be samosas!  Efficient landing at Udaipur and I was met at the airport and a taxi to Filadelfia campus. Just being in the open air felt a treat after 3 back to back flights and airports.  32 degrees.

Indian traffic and driving…. Oh My Word!  I will do a whole blog on roads I think at some point , because I am having to totally remove any of my “elf and safety” head!  Suffice it to say that horns are absolutely obligatory and motorcycle helmets are worn fetchingly on the arm (in case the police are around!).

Arriving at the campus I decided that the best policy was to keep awake and just go to sleep at night (I had completely lost any sense of the time!).  So after rice and dahl for lunch, I went out shopping with Janet who had called her usual rickshaw driver….   Stopping for a cup of hot, spiced and sweeeet chai on the way (delish) - the trip was just like any other shopping trip – but with an Indian twist….. working out what the fruit and veg were – trying to get an English word for things…. Not always possible – usually greeted with a shrug, chuckle and the suggestion (I think) to taste it and see….  

Arriving back at the campus, a cup of tea, chat and then a walk at dusk to the lake.  Udaipur is known for its lakes, and at night with the lights and a full moon it was beautiful.   We walked back in the dark (avoiding the piles of dung, uneven roads, piles of weed from the lake and other hazards)

And so to bed to try and reset my body clock.  I went to sleep to the drumming from a hindu wedding close by!

just three days to go ....

With only 3 days to go before I embark on my Indian adventure I am surrounded by random items..... or so it seems!  And the piles of STUFF don't seem to look anything like the space they will have to occupy.....Fairly typical state of affairs for travellers!

In my head, I am not taking very much.... HOWEVER the not very much looks like a lot...

So - the big rocks in first then.... ( well not rocks exactly ... but you get the idea!).

I am excited and apprehensive - in fairly equal measure, although I think the excitement is beginning to take over.

More in a couple of days!